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Reviving a Triebert Brevert C LP clarinet
#1
Dear all,

Finally I got this clarinet in my hands and I am very excited. The current condition as you can see in the pictures can be summarized in on word.: It doesn't even do for a clarinet Lamp!!

However I am very confident that I (With everybody's help) can revive this clarinet and make it play music for one more time! So welcome the new child of this forum a Triebert Brevert C Lp clarinet.

Obviously the first thing is to ask about the history of the clarinet.. serial # etc.
Well that's easy.. there is no serial number... If that is not bad enough, it is only label stamped on the bell and in the lower half piece it is stamped LP and Paris!

But overall the metal in the keywork looks of decent quality. So if someone wants to dive into the history of the Triebert Brevert makers that would be a good start while i am undusting this piece of history.Repeat
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#2
So here is what I saw when I opened the box:
An unpleasant surprise... this was actually bought at Goodwill's! As we say in Greece: Η καλή μέρα από το πρωί φαίνεται ROFL!!! (You can tell the good day by the dawn)

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#3
Starting from the top as you can see the mouthpiece appears to have enough material to extract DNA and clone the previous player!
Who knows which Jazzist from the 30's we can revive!!
It appears chipped a bit on the crown and for sure whoever was biting it wasn't biting straight! Look at the angle of the teethmarks. Also you can see 2 separate lines of teethmarks as like he had 2 biting techniques. Any comment on that??

I am really debating whether to use this for grinding or try to revive it. I think it is made out of wood. (How do we find out??) And if yes throw out some ideas on cleaning it and resurfacing it!

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Cork appears shot... It may seal as well but it demands to be removed...
I got an exacto knife..that would do it... Any other ideas on removing cork? Maybe with some alcohol to dissolve the glue?


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#4
Here are some pictures of the top half with the barrel. The wood doesn't appear to be cracked or swollen from moisture. It actually appears to have a nice "sealed" surface. I suspect they did a good treatment to it to start with. I guess there is always a huge debate on oil/not oil etc and we should do our due diligence and ask all the appropriate questions.

The barrel is STUCK! HAHAhahFor good!. I am listening to ideas. Here is one: Put it in a plastic sealable bag and stick it in the fridge for ~20 minutes. Then it should shrink and come out. (I know that the barrel will shrink too)....Better ideas? Some WD40 maybe..?(not good OK)
any other oil/ prying too coming to mind?

The pads are all worn out period!. Now look at some things I have discovered and I am looking fwd to your opinions:
A) Check out where the spring ends at the last picture. You can see it digs in the wood. And it is actually sticky. Shouldnt there be something hard right there so it won't damage it?
B) The springs are rusted/...??:confused::confused: I don't get it why. They should have been made from stainless steel. I guess they went cheap.
C)Idea! Observe the first picture really well. Now THIS IS INTERESTING and I don't see it in my other clarinets. There is a small drill hole right under the A key. Look carefully you will see it. It gets plugged when you hit the LA. Interesting. I am wondering what's the effect!:confused:
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#5
Going to the bottom part which is in the worst condition. Springs missing, pads shot and a nice little crack at the end of it!!
The barrel also appears to have 2 cracks and definitely appears the driest of all!

Missing also 1 ring from the barrel.

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#6
tseligas , a friend of mine soaks the clarinet in oil ,he uses motor oil for the cars ,and the parts do come apart ,their is also a web site called doctors products it is for woodwind instuments you might find solvent there . i can tell you if you do soak it leave it for 3 days so the oil penetrats , now will penetrating oil work better (its thiner) what ever you do it has to soak . also do clarina are in demand it doesnt look that bad does it have abrand name on it on the clarinet itself not the bell .
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#7
To Do list:

Ok here is my to do list for this project. Looking forward to critique and dialogue for future actions!

a) Dissasemble everything
b) Order pads/ springs
c) Destuck barrel from top part
d) To oil/or not to oil
e) if d is yes. Oil with what?
f) Clean all metal parts. Method?
g) Repair cracks - Before or after oiling?
h) Add corks - make sure they are snug
k) Attach all metal parts
l) Test for leaks
p) Test for tuning

I also plan to lend this clarinet to the active members of this thread for evaluation and feedback!

OK Tomorrow is (a) Dissasembly. Any concern .please post them now.

I will use some WD40 or equvalent oil for loosening up screws. It wouldnt be nice if I broke one and I had to drill and retap.
I plan to shoot videos and posting everything!.
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#8
chitowngreek Wrote:tseligas , a friend of mine soaks the clarinet in oil ,he uses motor oil for the cars ,and the parts do come apart ,their is also a web site called doctors products it is for woodwind instuments you might find solvent there . i can tell you if you do soak it leave it for 3 days so the oil penetrats , now will penetrating oil work better (its thiner) what ever you do it has to soak . also do clarina are in demand it doesnt look that bad does it have abrand name on it on the clarinet itself not the bell .

Got it! I have a special oil for that too. I will try soaking it from tonight and will test every day. No name on the clarinet... But the wood matches. Any thoughts?
Construction seems sturdy so it aint a cheap one.
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#9
also the thumb rest plays a roll , youres has 3 screws , some manufactures have 2 screws ,. you can use the thumb rest to help you indentify what brand it is , also the hole under the la key does it go all the way through or is it counter sunk to allow clearance for the spring screw ( i would think that it does not go all the way through )
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#10
Good call on the screws. I can't tell unless I unassemble about the hole. It has nothing to do with the spring though. The spring goes to the pivot point of La and ends behind the cork.

Ok I got 2 oils.
3 in ONE
and ELmer's Slide All.

I vote for Elmer cause it is dry, not oily or stainy. It may be tougher to penetrate though.
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